Coat collar and method of making the same



SQ t. so "1924. 1,509,841

' .I. -MILLER COAT COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Jan. 51. I924 IN VENT OR.

13266 M/Y/er A TIT NE YS.

Patented Sept. 30, 1924;,

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

COAT COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.-

Application filed January 31, 1924. Serial No. 689,607.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ISAAC MILLER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Scranton, in the county of Lackawanna and State of Pennsylvania. have invented a certain new and useful Coat Collar and Method of Making the Same, of which the following is a specification.

This invention is a method of making collars especially for mens suits and overcoats though adapted for the making of collars for any garment.

It is desirable that the collars of suits and overcoats be so constructed that in the fin ished garment the collar will lie flat particularly along its free edge. In other words, it is essential from the standpoint of appearance that the free edge of the collar does not show a marked increase in thickness due to the joining together of the different plies of fabric which enter into the collar construction.

In order to obtain this fiat appearance, collars have, in the past, been made almost entirely by hand stitching, great care being exercised to keep the edge fiat and considerable skill being required to effect this result and to render the points or turns of the collar smooth and symmetric. As a result of the care and skill which has entered into the construction of properly tailored col.- lars in the past, the collar has constituted an important part in the cost of the coat and it is the object of this invention to eliminate a great portion of this cost. and to expedite the making of collars through the provision of a construction whereby the greater portion of the hand stitching heretofore required may be replaced by machine stitching and the collar made even flatter and more uniform than under prior practice.

The advantage of this marked improve ment is that the collars may be more rapidly constructed without the employment of skilled help and a better collarproduced at a much lower cost.

Under prior practice, it has been common to secure the outer collar to the under collar by manually turning in the margin of the outercollar while it is overhanded to the under collar. This is a tedious task which requires time and considerable skill.

According to the present invention, in

contradistinction, I first sew upon the under collar a strip of fabric which may be called a mounting strip. This strip is sewed by one or more lines of machine stitching along the outer margin of the under collar and on the normally concealed face thereof in such manner as to extend slightly beyond the margin of the under collar. This having been accomplished, I lay the normally exposed side of the under collar on to the normally exposed face of the outer collar and while the parts are fiat run a line of ma chine stitching around the mounting strip so to sew the extended portion of the mounting strip on to the outer collar. This mounting strip is made of a relatively light and thin fabric and one sufliciently pliable so that after the stitching referred to has been accomplished, the collar may be turned inside out and into its normal condition. The free edge of the under collar is thereupon sewed to the juxtaposed portion of the outer collar. This sewing may be by machine stitching if desired but is preferably accomplished by overhanding the parts toget-her. The advantage of the latter procedure being that the stitches are entirely invisible and are not seen when the collar is pressed and in position on the coat. This construction will lie perfectly flat and no increased thickness will show at the edges of the collar.-

Other steps which are taken in the carrying out of the method to facilitate the making of collars in accordance therewith, as well as other advantages inherent in the construction will appear from the hereinafter detailed description and claims, when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

The accompanying drawings illustrate one practical embodiment of the invention, but the construction therein shown is to be understood as illustrative, only, and not as defining the limits of the invention.

Figures 1, 2 and 3 show the collar in different stages of its manufacture.

Figure 4 is a section on the line 4-4 of Figure 3.

Figure 5 is a view similar to Figure 4, but showing the next step in the making of the collar; and,

Figure 6 shows a section of the completed collar taken at the line tic-"4: of Figure 3.

In making the collar in accordance with this invention, I start with the under collar cut out as shown in Figure 1 and designated by the reference character 1. On the normally concealed face of this under collar, I sew a mounting strip 2 of relatively light fabric such for example as cambric. this strip being preferably cut on the bias to allow of proper conformation.

The strip 2 is sewed to the under collar 1 preferably by a single line of machine stitching 3 spaced from the free edge of the undercollar so as to leave the greater portion of the strip 2 unattached to the under collar but extending an appreciable distance beyond the free edge of the under collar 1 as is clearly shown in Figure 1. A line of machine stitching 4c is now run along the strip 2 adjacent its outer edge and serves as a. marking line to show the outer ed e of the under collar. This line of stitchlng runs only through the strip 2 and does not enter or attach to the under collar 1. It is purely for the purpose of marking. The collar having been thus far advanced, the collar canvas 5 is laid upon the under collar and stitched in place with the padded stitches 6 as shown in Figure 2 to reinforce and stiffen the under collar 1. If desired the canvas 5 may be secured to the under collar 1 before the mounting strip is attached thereto. But the sequence of these steps is optional. The marking stitch 7 with its reinforcing strips 8 constit'ute a part of the step of attaching the canvas 5 to the under collar. I

The attachment of the canvas to the un der collar is well known to the art, the only important feature so far as the present invention is concerned being that the canvas 5 be cut or shaped so as to not extend beyond the marking stitch 1. In other words it is important for the best results that the outer edge of the cuffs be coincident with the outer edge of the under collar and that the mounting strip extend slightly beyond these edges and between them.

The canvas and mounting strip having been secured to the under collar 1, the under collar is laid normally exposed face down upon the normally exposed face of the outer collar 9 and a line of machine-stitching is thereupon sewed in to unite the mounting strip Qa'nd the outer collar. During this step, the operator follows the marking line 1, so that the stitches which are now put in traverse this line. Such being the case, only the mounting strip and outer collar will be sewed together while the canvas 5 and'under c'olla'r will not be entered by this line of stitching. This enables the next step to be readily carried out, namely, the turning of the collar inside out.

Figure 4 shows the collar as it appears in Figure 3 after running in the last line of machine stitching to unite the outer collar and the lining strip. The line of machine stitching which accomplishes these results is designated by the reference character 10 in Figure 4:-

After this is accomplished the construction may be immediately turned inside out by swinging the outer collar 9. as shown by the arrow 11 in Figure 4 into the position in which it is shown in Figure 6 which is the normal position of the parts.

The free or exposed edge of the under collar 1 may be then sewed to the marginal fold of the outer collar 9 by stitches 12 as shown in Figure 6. so as to give a smooth finished edge. These stitches may in practice be applied as a line of machine stitching but I prefer to overhand these parts together as shown at 12 so that the stitches will be practically invisible and will pm duce a smooth close fitting tailored edge. no stitches being visible on the surface of the outer collar 9.

However, before turning the collar right side out as stated. an intermediate step may to advantage be :arried out as shown in Figure- 5. That is to say, the mounting strip 2 may be bent transversely intermediate its longitudinal edges to bring the normally concealed face of the outer collar 9 at its outer margin into face abutting relation with the lining 5. as shown in Figure 5. and the outer margin of the lining thereupon attached by means of a line of stitching 14- to the outer collar. The purpose of this stitching is to keep the lining smooth and to preclude folding thereof or wrinkling when the outer collar is bent over the upper edge of the linine and turned down into the position in which it is shown in Figure (i. This line of stitcl'ling 14 will maintain the lining in proper position and wrinkling of the lining cannot occur.

In Figures 1-. 5 and l the scale of the drawings is .Q'rcatly enlarged and this makes the collar appear rather thick but it will be noticed that the parts are so disposcd that the edge of the collar is practically as thin as any other part of thc collar and in practice no increased thickness is visible but in contradistinction the collar lies pcrfectly flat and smooth with an unusually thin edge which imparts to the garment well tailored appearance.

It will. be manifest from the foregoing description of the invention as carried out in its preferred form. that the collar may be made entirely without hand stitching if desired although the single row of stitches which secures the outer and under collars together at their edges is preferably employed. The turning in of the edges however is accomplished throngh the turning of the collar right side out after preliminary stitching which enables this last sewing to be accomplished very readily and without manually conditioning or turning in the edges as heretofore.

The procedure which I have described enables a high class collar to be made much cheaper than has heretofore been possible, this being largely due to the utilization of the mounting strip of this invention and the manner of employing the same.

The drawings show the invention in its preferred form, but the invention is to be understood as fully commensurate with. the appended claims.

Having thus fully described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of making a collar which consists in sewing a mounting strip along the edge of the under collar with the mounting strip extending beyond the edge of the under collar, thereafter sewing the outer collar to the projecting portion of the mounting strip, thereafter turning the thus assembled parts inside out and sewing the free edge of. the under collar to the bend at the outer margin of the outer collar.

2. The method of making a collar which consists in sewing a flexible fabric to the normally concealed face of the under collar in such manner that it will extend beyond the edge of the under collar, thereafter sewing the extending portion of said flexible fabric to the outer collar, then turning the thus assembled parts inside out and sewing the free edge of the under collar to the marginal bend of the outer collar.

3. The method of making a collar which consists in sewing a flexible fabric strip to the normally exposed face of the under collar in such manner that the strip will extend beyond the edge of the under collar, then sewing a line of machine stitching into the fabric strip to designate or mark the position of the outer edge of the under collar without sewing the under collar to said strip, then laying the normally exposed faces of the under and outer collars in face abutting relation and sewing in a line of machine stitching along the said stitched mark line to unite the fabric strip and outer collar, then turning the assembled outer and under collars right side out and sewing the free edge of the under collar to the bend adjacent the margin of the outer collar.

4. The method of making a collar which consists in reinforcing the under collar with collar canvas and securing a mounting strip of flexible material to the under collar by means of machine stitching with the flexible strip extending beyond the outer margin of the under collar and the reinforcing canvas, then stitching the protruding portion of the strip to the margin of the outer collar with the normally exposed faces of the outer and under collars in face abutting relation, thereupon turning the assembled parts right side out and stitching the exposed outer edges of the outer and under collars together.

5. A collar wherein the under collar and the outer collar are joined together by a bent mounting strip sewed to each of said collars independently and stitches uniting the free edge of the under collar in the outer margin of the outer collar.

6. A collar comprising an under collar portion and an outer collar portion, a mounting strip sewed flat on the under collar portion near one of the margins of the strip and sewed flat on the outer collar portion near the other margin of the strip, said mounting strip being bent transversely to bring the concealed faces of the two collar portions interiorly of the collar, and stitches uniting the inner and outer collar portions along the outer edge of the collar.

7. A collar comprising an under collar portion and an outer collar portion, a mounting strip sewed flat on the under collar portion near one of the margins of the strip and sewed flat on the outer collar portion near the other margin of the strip, said mounting strip being bent transversely to bring the concealed faces of the two collar portions interiorly of the collar, stitches uniting the inner and outer collar portions along the outer edge of the collar. and a reinforcing ply positioned between the inner and outer collar portions.

In testimony-whereof I have signed the foregoing specification.

ISAAC MILLER. 

